Buying Soap Nuts – What to know BEFORE you buy.
To know soap nuts is to love them. Myths and half-truths abound. Here’s some basics to guarantee the quality and integrity of your purchase – to ensure you are getting what you pay for!
1) Buy soap nuts that have had the seeds removed. Be sure this is spelled out very clearly. If not, odds are they will be loaded with seeds. It is common to find a seed once in a while. Excessive numbers of seeds is indicative of poor quality since you are paying for their weight. Beware of soap nuts referred to as “whole”. This is a red fag that commonly means not “de-seeded”. You should notice a break in the skin and pulp where the seed was popped out when the soap nut was very soft. As packaged in India, Nepal and elsewhere in S/E Asia, it’s typical to be a mix of whole and part shells. The seeds should be removed – leaving only the hollow outer skin and pulp to be dried. A soap nut containing a solid seed will weigh double (or more) than one that has been properly de-seeded. Being sold by weight when exported is precisely why we are finding soap nuts with seeds in the market – more weight and no extra labor cost to process them. In the case of trifoliatus and other smaller soap berry species the weight of the seed is extremely high relative to the skin and pulp. (The size of the berry is much smaller, but the seed is comparable in size to mukorossi seeds.) If you are buying by weight, as you should be, then seeds add unwanted weight that you are paying for. Seeds can spot or stain laundry – particularly when left in contact with wet laundry for even a short period of time. They have a dense black outer layer that can leave a brown spot on your favorite blouse or linens. So, always remove seeds when found. You may hear them rattling in a mukorossi soap nut. This is usually not the case with species producing smaller fruits (i.e., trifoliatus, saponaria, and others). When berries (with seeds) of these species dry out the “husk” and seed tend to become tightly bonded together, hence no rattling – and very difficult to remove. When a larger mukorossi soap berry (with a seed in it) dries it often leaves an air gap between the husk and seed, hence the soap nut seed is looser and easier to detect. Break it open and the seed will normally fall right out. Use seeds for growing new tress and plants – or be creative with them. Never use them in your wash. Note: Exportation of soap nuts with seeds is growing at an alarming pace. Soap nut seeds create an opportunity for profiteering in this young and often misinformed marketplace.
2) Buy soap nuts by weight – not loads. Knowing how many seedless soap nuts you are buying and having reasonable expectations of them are certainly good initial steps. Used traditionally (wash bag method), one half-ounce (usually five mukorossi soap nuts) will yield roughly 4-7 loads. It amazes me that people will buy “XX loads” boxes or bags. It’s impossible to know how many loads you will get. One pound of good quality, de-seeded, mukorossi soap nuts will roughly have a rough range of 128 to 224 washes. (That is a wide range.) I have no problem with a retailer who offers an average or estimate to the low end (say approx. 160 loads) as long as the weight is clearly specified. Giving a new user a rough idea can be helpful. However, buying soap nuts based on number of loads is foolish. There are far too many variables that affect how many washes you will obtain. That 36 load box may actually yield 20 or 60 loads. Nobody knows. We cannot change the basic math, nor reduce the number of variables. Only time and experience will help you to optimize the effectiveness of your soap nuts so you can get the most bang for your buck.
3) Avoid overseas packaging. There are numerous reasons for this. Once sealed and packaged for retail, nobody will inspect your soap berries before you own them. Let’s remember we are talking about a raw fruit here. The overseas sorting and inspection of soap berries prior to packaging is often low in quality control. Keep in mind that these retail packages will be at sea in large cargo containers (without climate control) for many weeks or even months. They will travel on open seas over a great distance through all kinds of climates and weather. Who knows what will happen to them during this long journey. They will get very hot and very cold. Condensation and moisture can build up and degrade the soap berries. I have received soap nuts packaged overseas that were overly wet and stuck together, blackish in color, plus contained many seeds, hairs, and all kinds of leaves and debris. It is much cheaper for sellers to purchase them “ready for retail” because of the low Asian labor costs. Interestingly though, soap nuts that are packaged overseas are usually comparably priced to ones that have been inspected and packaged in the US or Canada. Buy soap nuts that have been inspected and sorted AFTER their long voyage. This will assure you of better quality control over the final processing and packaging. You can also feel more comfortable that Fair Trade practices have been adhered to.
4) Understand what you are buying. Be certain of what you want. Soap berries (soap nuts) are so new to the public that there are many big gaps in the information available. Sellers tend to focus on the general, when the specifics are vitally important to a good transaction. As I’ve written hundreds of times, “A soap nut is NOT just a soap nut.” Understanding that takes a bit of study. It is crucial to understand that soap nut sellers are trying to sell the concept that soap nuts are a better, natural way to clean. Very few are educating people about the important particulars. Sellers tend to tell what you want to hear. This oversimplification is the root of the problem. Once consumers are well schooled regarding the differences, sellers will need to become more knowledgeable in order to satisfy the market. We are a long way from that point. Let’s face it, only recently did most of us start reading product labels more carefully. The soap nuts may be what you want. They may not. We need to ask the right questions.
5) Make no assumptions. Good soap nut sellers are very knowledgeable and will specify all the important aspects. They will describe their soap nuts’ species, weight, condition, de-seeded or not, age, packaging, accessories such as wash bags and instructions, etc. Quite simply, assume nothing and you won’t be disappointed. If everything about the soap nuts has been clearly verified by the seller, you will most likely be pleased. There are many start-up soap nut businesses today. Some really care and are sincerely promoting this wonderful green alternative. Others only want to sell something, and don’t care much about what it is. The ones that do care will show it.
6) Be certain their is a return policy. All good sellers will stand behind their products. Unless you’ve made a certain “deal” and are willing to agree to a no return policy, returns should be acceptable. Expect to lose the shipping costs and to have to pay to ship them back. At least you won’t get stuck with poor quality soap nuts.
7) Pay by credit card, Paypal or through an escrow agent. In a worst case scenario, this will provide you buyer protection and an out from a bad transaction. You can always dispute a charge for “merchandise not as described”. Be extremely leery of any seller who wants cash, debit card, wire transfer, Western Union, etc. Getting your money back will be unlikely. A good seller will have credit card processing and/or Paypal available. If not, beware. As always, when buying soap nuts online be certain that you are purchasing through a verified secure store.
8) Stick with suppliers with reliable reputations. Good sellers will have a well-known and documented track history for quality products and customer service. An exception to this is the new, honest, start-up seller. I highly support the efforts of so many people that are developing new, honest, green soap nut businesses. Everybody has to start somewhere. With a new seller that has little history, get to know them. Follow the above tips, and if all is in order, support them. They are foot soldiers of the green movement and deserve our support.
9) Consider more than the “price per…” That’s a big mistake. It’s just not that simple. There are too many variables. If buying cheaply priced soap nuts, that’s asking for inferior quality and disappointing transaction. Paying more however does not ensure better quality. I’ve seen prices go from A to Z without any correlation to quality. Only by knowing exactly what you are buying can you expect a good transaction.
10) Beware of the “hype”. Creative sellers often try to distinguish their soap nuts from others – trying to make you think they are better or worth more. “Organic” and “Gourmet” are big ones. “Gourmet” being quite humorous of course. (I can’t wait to scarf down my next plate of soapberries!) For the most part, “organic” is now being tossed around so much that the term has become meaningless. All soap berries are “organic “- by definition (same as they are “natural”). Don’t think such generalized, descriptive terms are meaningful. Official “USDA Certified Organic” and “Ecocert”, the international authenticating body, are different. Such official certifications are some assurance of the chemical-free processing of the soap nuts. There are very steep fines and penalties for fraudulent use of such official certifications that should restrict misuse. However when buying soap nuts, the species, condition, and reputation of the seller remains paramount. Keep in mind that there is nothing whatsoever to stop exporters of inferior quality soap nuts from gaining an official certification that a seller may then use. The actual quality, effectiveness and value of the soap berry are NOT criteria in the official certification process.
11) Stick with mukorossi or trifoliatus soap nuts. Avoid any obscure species. (i.e., Wild saponaria trees have been found throughout Mexico and some are being harvested. Little is known regarding the quality of the berries, or the standards implemented during harvest.) Mukorossi soap nuts are the species of choice for the quality exporters and are consistently of high saponin content (the all-important active ingredient in soap nuts). Trifoliatus is often being sold with seeds, and sometimes misrepresented as mukorossi. It’s a cheap alternative with lucrative profiteering potential. Trifoliatus (seed excluded) is high in saponin content, same as mukorossi, but it has a lower market value. If you are buying trifoliatus you should be paying much less. If you really know your soap nuts and/or are making liquids and powders in volume, it can be a cost effective way for you to go without compromising effectiveness. Trifoliatus is however much more similar in appearance to other species with lower saponin content, hence more difficult to be assured of what you actually have. Only one soap nut being harvested in high volume is distinctly different in appearance than other species. That is mukorossi. Particularly for the new soap nuts user, sticking with mukorossi makes for a far safer bet that you’ll be buying a quality soap berry. Both whole soap nuts and pieces are equally effective. Pieces also make for good buying opportunities. Note: As mentioned above, be aware that “whole” may be used by some sellers to describe soap nuts that have not been properly de-seeded. Be sure that this is clear.
12) Understand the characteristics of the fruit. Also see #4 above. This is the only way you can evaluate your transaction. Soap nuts are mainly harvested from January through March (particularly mukorossi). The new harvest will typically sell at a premium price, while the previous year’s harvest will be discounted to clear floor space. Very freshly harvested mukorossi soap nuts will be large (about the diameter of a U.S. nickel and up to the size of a quarter), sticky, and yellow/golden in color. A good processor will allow them to air dry before packaging or sealing if overly moist. As they age in the first year they will darken to a reddish and then brownish color. Ultimately the soap nuts will turn black. If overly moist they will darken more quickly. It is quite common to find black soap nuts as seen in pictures D and E, and they may be up to two or even three years old. If soap nuts are processed and stored properly they will be somewhat dry, yet remain a bit tacky to the touch, and get no more than dark brown in color. They can remain this way for very long periods, but require a stable storage environment. Storage at a humidity level of 25 to 30% and temperature of 60 to 65°F is ideal for extended storage periods. Unfortunately maintaining such stability is difficult for many suppliers, hence overly dry and overly moist soap nuts are commonly found. It is recommended to buy as fresh of soap nuts as possible. If needed, allow them to dry to the point where they are slightly moist and pliable. Then seal in an airtight container and store in a cool, dark place. This will ensure long term freshness. Trifoliatus is similar except they are much smaller, usually darker in color, and drier even when very fresh. The important thing is to get what you are paying for.
13) Know the species and the year of harvest. If you do, you’ll then know exactly what to expect. If it’s Springtime and you are buying – and paying for – high quality, de-seeded mukorossi, then you’ll know that the soap nuts should be large, golden-ish and tacky. If they are small (like a U.S. dime), or very dark, or very gummy, or very dry, or full of seeds, then something is definitely wrong. Don’t pay as much for previous year’s soap nuts as the current harvest. If the soap nuts have been properly stored, the previous year’s harvest can create great buying opportunities. They will still be highly effective and available at bargain prices.
You’re now ready to purchase soap nuts with little risk of receiving poor quality, or having a bad experience!
